Visiting South Dakota

Sundown over a South Dakota Farm

Our plans for this summer are somewhat fluid as usual.  We have learned it is best to make reservations early for holiday weekends and popular vacation destinations.  Using this philosophy, we made reservations at two Yellowstone National Park campgrounds covering a three week period in July and one week near Glacier National Park in Montana early August.  We made these reservations about six months ago and have been wandering our way toward those destinations at the appropriate time.  We try to wander through areas of the country we have not visited before and of course see interesting sites along the way.  Often we find very unique and interesting things to see; but other times, it is just somewhere to stop with not much to do.  

Geographic Center of the United States

We really enjoyed the western side of North Dakota and the Theodore Roosevelt National Park.  There was so much to see and do there with some fantastic hiking trails.  Once we crossed into South Dakota the landscape changed back to rolling grass hills as far as you could see.  We camped at Rocky Point State Park near Belle Fourche, SD.  You may recall that we passed through Rugby, ND and stopped to take a picture at the geographic center of North America.  Well, Belle Fourche, SD is the geographic center of the United States not to be confused with the geographic center of the contiguous United States in Lebanon, KS.  

Center of the Centers?

Clear? Well the center of the United States was Lebanon, KS until we added Hawaii and Alaska and that changed the center of the nation to Belle Fourche, SD.  Of course, each location has a marker and draws tourists who spend their dollars there.  Not being one to leave things alone, I decided to map the center of the three geographic centers and suggest a monument for the Center of the Centers and let the Cheyenne Indians make a dollar as well.  

We spent three days near Belle Fourche that was at least a day longer than what you need to see everything. We did find a fellow downtown that has a collection of about 30 pristine AMC automobiles.  He was very nice and we walked around his cars and discussed the various engines and parts used during the later years of AMC and the subsequent purchase of the company by Lee Iacocca CEO of Chrysler.   

Private AMC Collection Belle Fourche, SD

Next we traveled to a private campground south of Rapid City, SD near Hermosa.  From here we were able to visit some friends who live in Rapid City as well as spend a couple days driving along scenic roads thorough Custer State Park.  We had visited Mt Rushmore before but it was neat to see it from the perspective of driving north through tunnels on the Iron Mountain Road.  

Iron Mountain Road builders purposefully aligned the tunnels to frame Mt. Rushmore

We visited the Crazy Horse Memorial that is under construction and probably will be for our lifetime. The onsite museum is a great collection of Native American history and educational displays for events that occurred in the western United States.  In the basement, they have an entire area dedicated to Bison history that really explained the rapid decline and near extinction of these great animals.  

 Moving a little further south, we stopped for a few nights near Hot Springs, SD where we visited the Mammoth site.  This is a significant research facility and ongoing paleontological dig where 30 or more male Mammoths were drawn to a sinkhole pool of warm water that did not freeze during the winter.  They either tried to drink and fell in or entered the pool to drink and bathe.  Either way, the bank all the way around the pool was covered in slick red clay and they could not climb out.  They probably became exhausted with the struggle and drowned.  Entombed in a small pool that was subsequently filled with clay, their skeletons and everything else that was trapped in the pool are well preserved.  

Mammoth Site Hot Springs, SD

With the Fourth of July on a Wednesday this year, we made reservations at out of the way places for the weekends on either side of the holiday.  This gave us time in a small Nebraska city park campground to wash The Bus and get the oil changed in the Jeep.  I keep a log of tire mileage on the Jeep that we tow behind The Bus by simply adding the miles we drive in the Jeep with the number of miles we towed the Jeep.  In seven months, we have put 21,139 miles on the tires.  It is kind of shocking to think we will need to replace Jeep tires every two years at this pace.  

Random Prairie Dog

RV Tip:  South Dakota like North Dakota and several other states, charges a vehicle entry fee in addition to the campground fee to enter their state parks.  It is something like $7 per day or $30 for an annual pass.  We have found it is usually better to pay the annual fee and put the sticker on your TOAD (scout vehicle) so you can cover your days in the current park as well as breeze through the gate of other parks you may visit even if you don’t camp there. 

My 50th State

Before departing Minnesota, we stopped for a few nights at Winnie Dam Corp of Engineer Campground near Deer River, MN.  We took a day trip and drove over to the headwaters of the Mississippi River at Lake Itasca State Park.  This small stream begins the flow of one of the world’s mightiest rivers.

Pattie walks across the Mississippi River

Another day, we drove over to Grand Rapids, MN to visit Judy Garland’s childhood home and museum. She was quite the celebrity in her day and most famous for her role as Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz.  

Departing Minnesota, we headed west into North Dakota.  This was my first time in North Dakota and it is the only state I have never visited. Moving cross-country when I was young and then traveling extensively during my 24 years in the US Air Force, provided me the opportunity to visit every other state, but somehow I always missed ND.  There are a few states Pattie has not visited and we have several states where we have not yet camped in The Bus.  For now, we are happy to add the ND sticker to our national map.

We stayed at four different locations across ND.  Driving from east to west, the terrain looks much like Iowa with flat farmland as far as you could see.  We saw a sign in Rugby, ND denoting the geographic center of North America and made a quick stop for a photo op.  

Once we made it to west side, things began to get interesting.  The Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) is impressive on many different scales.  The beautiful scenery, interesting animal life, various plant life, and unusual geological formations are what attract many visitors here each year.  

We dry camped in the National Park Service North Site campground for several days before moving to a horse ranch near Medora, ND to visit the South Site.  Both the North Site and the South Site have scenic drives and many hiking and horse trails.    

The TRNP and history in the area made this the most interesting part of ND we visited.  The small tourist town of Medora, ND is home to a top quality outdoor amphitheater where many plays and musicals are performed each year.  We attended the Medora Musical and ate at the Pitch Fork Fondue.  They cook steaks on pitchforks by dipping them in hot oil.  It was more of a novelty than a wonderful tasting meal (there is a reason the best steak houses in the US are not cooking steaks by frying them in large vats of oil).  

The musical however was top notch entertainment.  Just before the performance began, a large bull elk wandered up for a quick visit and look around.  It was a fun evening out.

We also spent a long rainy day never stepping outside The Bus.  It gave me time to catch up on computer work and Pattie time to bake bread and do some laundry.  The following day, we sought out the Elkhorn Ranch Site located about 40 north of Madora, ND.  Most of the roads were dirt that had turned to mud the day before, but after an hour sliding around, we found the ranch site that was so inspiring to Theodore Roosevelt.  A short hike and we walked among the foundation stones that were once his cabin.  Back at the Jeep, we spent half and hour getting all the ticks off each other, but it was worth the trip.  

Next we had south into South Dakota to visit some friends and see the Crazy Horse monument.
Thanks again for keepingupwiththejonesrv!

North for Summer 2018 – Begin Year Four!

Happy Memorial Day

We began our fulltime RV lifestyle in June 2015 thinking we would do it for about three years to see everything we wanted to see.  Well here we are at the end of year three and we have only seen about half of it. There are ten states in the contiguous United States that we have not camped in with The Bus.  Our rule is we must have spent at least one night camping in The Bus to earn the state sticker.  Delaware and Connecticut we somehow missed in our travels back east and I don’t think we are motivated to go back just to say we did it.  This summer, we are hitting the northern tier states some politicians call “Fly Over States.”  

We stopped at Lake Charles State Park in Arkansas for a few nights after leaving Alabama.  I purchased a three-day fishing license, but failed to catch anything.  We visited the local mostly abandoned town of Powhatan, AR.  We toured the museum there and walked around the old buildings.  This little town was once bustling with pearl prospectors digging mussels out of the river.    

 

St Moritz Schnitzel

Our next stop was at Lake of the Ozarks in Missouri.  We camped at the US Army FAMCAMP located on the southern end of the lake.  Ft Leonard Wood, MO is about an hour south of the lake and I received some training there back in 1984.  In fact, that summer was my 21^st birthday and I ate at a German restaurant near the base.  I was surprised the restaurant was still there and ordered St Moritz schnitzel just as I had 34 years ago.  It was great! We stocked up on supplies at the commissary and headed back to camp.  The campground marina rents jet skis, so Pattie and I thought we would relive some of our youth by renting one for an hour.  We blasted across the lake at speeds over 50 mph! While it was fun, we both looked at the pontoon boats when we returned and remarked how comfortable they looked. 

How we felt riding the jet ski...you know, young, thin, hair

Next it was off to visit the Amana Colonies in Iowa.  As I drove through Iowa and looked across endless fields of young corn sprouting up 3-4 inches high, I reaffirmed the thought I had in 1984 the first time I visited Iowa. America's true power is in these fields and the men and women who work them.  Since I was driving, I was not able to take pictures; but, the rural farm houses with tractors and equipment outside, the church steeples rising from towns in the distance, the homes with American flags and banners flying in honor of Memorial Day was a picture of America those that fly over these states will never see or understand.  We camped close enough we could ride our bikes into Amana to visit the museum, shop, and of course eat another great German meal.

Many shops in Amana with homemade goods

Onward to the north trying to escape the 90+ degree weather in Iowa, we arrived in Eagan, MN.  We spent three nights here just south of the “Twin Cities” and visited the Mall of America.  It was an all day hike of its own.  We shopped very little since we don’t need anything and have nowhere to store anything.  We enjoyed the Fly Over America 4D video ride and lunch at Bubba Gump’s .  

Mall of America

Momma says...

We are still looking for that cooler weather so we are headed to North Dakota next.

Thanks for keepingupwiththejonesrv!

RV tip:  Locking gas caps can be a pain, but a fellow camper told me a story where a friend of his was camping in Washington State and someone put something in their fuel tank that basically destroyed the engine.  He said some radical environmentalist have been targeting large RVs and suggested we take precautions.  So, I found the correct type of caps and bought two keyed alike. Maybe it will save us some grief.

Random RVing Thoughts

Mom with certificate of Appreciation from her Grandson William 

We have finally launched for our third summer of full-time RVing. We are heading north for cooler climates.  Departing Tuscaloosa after spending a nice Mother's Day weekend with my mom, we headed north and since we had to pass by Red Bay, AL, we stopped over to have a local expert check our slide alignment.  We have noticed some hydraulic fluid on some lines and have broken a couple sheer pins on the electric slides (isn't that a dance?).  A quick stop in Red Bay should make sure we are in top shape to make our way north and west all the way to the Oregon coast.

I though I would post a couple random thoughts for people who may find this blog in their research for full time RVing.  Now in our third year, we do not feel as if we have seen nearly as much as we want to see in our great country.  We don't know when this adventure will end for us, but that's OK because we are making it up as we go.  The planning part of me had us doing this about three years.  What we have found is that life events as always get a vote and you need to be able to adjust and adapt frequently.  So make your plans, but don't expect them to survive the next bend in the road.

RV task assignments for each of us kind of came about naturally.  When we get ready to roll out, I take care of the outside stuff and Pattie takes care of the inside stuff.  We don't get our feelings hurt when the other one double checks that each task was done correctly.  After all, whatever happens we are both in this together.

Cleaning the windshield

One of my tasks is to clean off the top of the slide toppers.  Slide toppers are tensioned fabric that rolls out and in with the slides (The Bus has four slides or slide outs as some people call them).  They keep debris off and shed water that would otherwise land on top of the slide and get pulled into the gaskets along the slide top.  I take a folding ladder and a battery powered blower (Ego 56 volt "insert Toolman grunt" here) up to blow stuff off the fabric.
Another one of my jobs is to clean the windshield, mirrors, and wipers.  A great feature of Class A motorhomes is the huge front windshield that gives you a great view of the countryside as you drive through it.  No use in looking at it through bugs and poop.  We start each trip with a clear view.
As much as possible, we travel with our gray and black tanks empty and the fresh water at least half full.  This is part of being prepared for plans to change.  We want the ability to stop overnight anywhere with no services (hook-ups) available.  Having some water on board allows us to flush the toilet, wash hands and dishes, and even a quick shower.
Pattie makes sure everything inside is put in its proper place with drawers and inside doors secured.  We use colored reusable wire ties in strategic places to secure certain items and as reminders.  Once outside jobs are finished and she has everything secured inside, we bring the slides in together watching and listening to ensure they work properly.  This has helped prevent major issues.  Like when a AAA battery or writing pen has gone missing and rolled under the edge of a slide.  Some crunching noises can get expensive, so it is best to listen, watch and be prepared to stop slide movement.

Reusable rubber coated wire ties. Not so much to hold the cabinet shut as it is to remind you that you are the first one to open it and be prepared to catch something that has shifted in flight.

Once all the slides are in, we lift the leveling jacks again listening for strange noises.  Then we both exit the coach and do a walk around the outside checking that I did my tasks properly and that the slides are in, hatches are closed, and antennas are down.  We usually disconnect power as our last step.
We hook up the Jeep together double checking all the connections.  Pattie takes a FRS radio outside and we check our brake and turn signal lights.  Then she walks alongside the Jeep as I pull forward to ensure the tow bar is locked correctly and the Jeep's tires are rolling freely.

All these little things we do the same way each time and so far we have only had a few minor incidents (a drawer flying open, a cargo hatch opening at speed, etc).   I relate it to a boat captain or aircraft pilot who do the same routines and follow their checklists.  We made our own checklist and are happy to share it with others.

Thanks again for keepingupwiththejopnesrv!

Life Changes

In the spring of 2011, we drove down to Auburn, AL with our oldest son William to visit Auburn University. He liked Auburn University and decided this was where he would pursue a engineering degree.  Although Pattie and I both graduated from Auburn, we did not pressure him to go there (I don’t think we did anyway).  For housing, we decided to buy a mobile home and rent a space in a park dedicated for students.  In 2014, his brother Chris also decided Auburn University was the place for him to pursue a degree in Fine Arts.  They lived together in the mobile home at Auburn until this past week

Pattie and I began full-time RVing in the summer of 2015 and used the mobile home in Auburn, AL as our legal address after we sold our home in Maryland.  Our mail came there and the boys would forward it to us as needed. We traveled back to Auburn several times a year to visit them and do maintenance on the mobile home.  It had become familiar.  We attended a local church, had our favorite restaurants, and occasionally reminisced about our time on campus.  Suddenly, this has all changed.

Auburn Mobile Home Served Its Purpose

William graduated and got a job in Columbus, GA so we moved him to an apartment in Phenix City, AL. Chris has been selected for a one-year apprenticeship with a theatre company in Atlanta, GA and will finish his degree on-line.  We spent the last several weeks moving furniture in several different directions, selling off unneeded items, and preparing the mobile home to sell. Fortunately, it was the perfect time to sell property in Auburn as there is a housing shortage and buyers are scrambling to find a place for the 2018 Fall Semester.  The mobile home sold in one day without any advertising.  

It seems like just the other day they loaded their cars and headed to college.

While all these events are blessings, it is a bit sad to realize that our sons are truly stepping out completely on their own. The pseudo home in Auburn will no longer be there for us to worry over.  Our familiar stop over in Auburn will no longer be necessary.  The lack of bills associated with keeping two sons in college will be welcome.  Then there is the decision about a legal address or domicile.

We decided to use William’s address in Alabama to prevent a lot of changes in licenses, tags, voting, taxes, etc.  For mail, we have set up an account with a mail forwarding company specializing in supporting RV customers (RVMail).  With all these things in place and family members on the path to being settled, it is time for us to head west to the northern tier states that we have not visited. We are a little sad and a little excited.  I guess the windshield is larger than the rear view mirrors so you can see where you are going more than where you have been.

Red Bay Service

After receiving the diagnosis from Chris at Red Bay Diesel that our exhaust manifold gasket was causing the high pitched squeal upon acceleration, we set an appointment with him to replace the gasket and manifold the following week.  The original exhaust manifold on our 2007 Allegro Bus 40 QSP with the Cummins 400hp ISL engine was a one piece design.  Chris explained that the manifold was most likely warped and would never seal properly.  Since labor is 2/3's the cost, it is only prudent to replace the manifold and anything attached to it while it is being done. The total cost was $1966.

While we waited in Red Bay, we enjoyed meeting other Tiffin owners, sharing a beverage, and even dinner a few nights.  We explored the area a little more and took the opportunity to buy a few parts at the Tiffin Part Store and do some minor maintenance ourselves.

When we departed, The Bus was running very quiet and strong.  We drove about 3 hours south to Deerlick Creek Campground near Tuscaloosa to spend a few days visiting my mother.  On the trip down we were cautiously optimistic that we both felt the ride quality to be much improved.  We asked Chris at Red Bay Diesel to check the ride height of the air bag suspension as it seemed to ride rough in the front.  They recorded the following measurements:

We were told that being a 1/4 or 1/2 inch out of tolerance can drastically affect the ride quality as the frame will contact the bump stops rather than the air bags absorbing the load.  As you can see, ours was significantly out of tolerance and the team at Red Bay Diesel adjusted it back to specifications.  The ride seems much better, but we want to put several more hours of driving on it before we claim victory.

While in Tuscaloosa, we helped my mother with some appointments, chores around the house, and shopping.  She is tough to keep track of when she gets on a scooter.  We enjoyed our time celebrating Easter with my sister and brother in law and had some good meals together.

This was our first time staying at Deerlick Creek Campground and found it much better than the more convenient Sunset RV Park near the interstate.  Deerlick Creek Campground is a Army Corps of Engineer campground on the river and gives you a campground atmosphere rather than an industrial park feel with highway noise.

Thanks for keepingupwiththejonesrv!

RV Tip:  Don't get distracted setting up or breaking camp.  Distractions can cause you to miss an important step.  One thing I do after disconnecting all service items is scan the faucet and power box to see if I forgot anything.  I failed to do this when leaving Red Bay RV Park and left a good quality pressure regulator.  Thanks to Amazon Prime, I received a new one a couple days later.  Remember the scan!

Back to the Southeast for More Moves

We bid farewell to Arizona stopping by the Tiffin Rally in Tucson for the open house day on our way back east.  It was fun to see the new coaches and talk with other Tiffin owners there.

We had hoped to stay out west for several months, but knew there were family obligations on the horizon.  Sure enough, the independent living apartment Pattie’s mom had been waiting on for two years in Atlanta, GA became available and her move was planned for the second week in March.  Our trip back east followed the same route we took to go west even stopping at the same campgrounds.  Along the way, I noticed The Bus began making a loud squeal when I pressed on the accelerator.   Fluids, temperatures, and power were all good, so I did not worry too much about it and focused on family matters.  We established camp at Ft Benning’s Uchee Creek Campground, as there are not too many campground options convenient to downtown Atlanta.  We were able to stay with Pattie’s sister in Atlanta during the time of the move, so we did not have to drive back and forth. 

The move went smoothly and Pattie’s mom was soon settled in her new home.  After 60+ years living in the same house, downsizing and adjusting can be traumatic.  She handled it well and is making new friends and seeing some old ones there. 

During this time we dropped by Auburn to visit with our sons.  William recently graduated in Mechanical Engineering and was looking for a job.  Chris is in his senior year in theater and his plans are fluid.  William suggested we go out to dinner at a rather expensive restaurant.  We agreed, as we like to spoil the starving college students when we can.  To our great surprise, William announced dinner was on him and that he had a job!  He is working for an engineering firm and will be moving soon to the Phoenix City, AL area. 

We traveled back to Atlanta to prepare Pattie’s mom’s house for estate sale and property sale.  As we departed, we saw some brave young soldiers parachuting on the ranges at Ft Benning.  Ah to be young again.

With our work done in Atlanta, we headed back to The Bus thinking about returning in April for the estate sale and helping William move.  A phone call came in from our son Chris telling us he has been offered an apprenticeship with a production company in Atlanta and will be moving out this summer.  More great news!  We began a flurry of plans now to juggle these events and all seemed very busy.  Then we received a text from my sister saying that her mother-in-law had passed away.  We were saddened by this news, but joyful at the same time because we know she is receiving her reward for her faith.  Back at The Bus, we broke camp and headed to Tuscaloosa, AL to pay our respects and help take care of my mom while my sister tended to funeral events. 

The engine whistle remained, so we made an appointment at Bay Diesel in Red Bay, AL to have it addressed and service all fluids.  We have never seen Red Bay so full of motorhomes.  Every campground is full and we had to dry camp for one night until we could find a spot.  It is a combination of snowbirds heading back north, the increasing sales of new coaches, and people just coming to visit.  We met new friends and had several evenings talking about RVing. 

The techs at Bay Diesel changed the drive belt and cleaned the pulleys, but the squeal remained.  Next they found a crack in the exhaust cross pipe and replaced it, but the squeal remained.  

After further examination, they determined the exhaust manifold gasket is blown in one area.  This is a common problem with the Cummins 400 ISL motor of this year model (2007).  The manifold itself is probably warped, so they scheduled us for a manifold replacement the following week.   This will probably be our largest repair expense in almost three years of RVing full time.  Bracing for the bill...

Thanks for keepingupwiththejonesrv!